Ask an expat: What it’s like living in Amsterdam

Today is the one year anniversary of when I relocated to Amsterdam! I truly can’t believe it’s been a year – and it’s certainly been a different year than I expected. To celebrate, I wanted to share some observations and tips about what life is really like in Amsterdam. I’ve also asked my two friends Josemar & Kelsey (both American expats) to give me their perspective. Here are our thoughts on what it’s like living in Amsterdam as an expat.

Let’s talk about Amsterdam!

What made you decide to move to Amsterdam?

JOSEMAR: While I was teaching abroad in Madrid for a year, I met a handsome kiwi man (New Zealander) who stole my heart. We managed long (long) distance when I moved back to Texas and after a crazy year of that, I decided to take the leap and move to his European home in Amsterdam.

MERCEDES: Europe has always attracted me, ever since the first trip I took to Greece with my husband (then boyfriend) after my MBA in 2012. In fact, we got married in Santorini! I had been looking for an opportunity to relocate with my company, which happens to have a European hub in Amsterdam. I also loved that Amsterdam has easy access to an international airport, and doesn’t have as large of a language barrier since most locals are fluent in English.

KELSEY: My partner was moving for his work. We were living together in NYC, and it was a bit of a joint decision. My only stipulation was that I had to find a new job before leaving my great one in New York. Thankfully I found something just two weeks before we were scheduled to move! 

What is your favorite neighborhood in Amsterdam, and why?

KELSEY: I love the 9 straatjes! They’re full of cute boutiques and cafes. Plus all the beautiful canal houses. 

JOSEMAR: Favorite neighborhood in Amsterdam (like probably most) is the Jordaan (pronounced: yor-dan). It’s just so picturesque and just quintessential Amsterdam with its dancing houses, canals, and overall charming atmosphere.

MERCEDES: I have to agree with Josemar & Kelsey… the west is best! I think the west canal side of the city (Grachtengordel, pronounced grak-tin-gordal) is the best area of Amsterdam. It’s right next to the Jordaan and includes the 9 Streets, which has some of the best shopping and most picturesque houses. It’s close to the touristy stuff, but far enough away from the city center so you’ll get a more local experience.

What’s your favorite thing about living in Amsterdam?

JOSEMAR: Top two favorite things about living in Amsterdam would be 1. The canals, I absolutely love boating around the canals on a sunny day. 2. It’s so easy to get around, especially by bike! Though funnily enough, it took me quite some time to get confident to cycle around town but now it’s my preferred mode of transport.  

KELSEY: The access to travel (pre-covid!). The airport is only 15-20 mins away and flights are super affordable all over Europe. 

MERCEDES: I would have to say the general pace of life. Dutch people really value a work-life balance, love to read, and like to take things slow. It was a huge (and welcome) change coming from Los Angeles, which is fast-paced and always feels like a bit of a rat race. Although it can be a bit annoying when you’re waiting to be served at a restaurant or need something repaired in your apartment. 🙂

What’s one insider tip you have?

MERCEDES: Many stores close early for a big city – usually 6pm. Like I said, the Dutch really value their personal time! Thursdays & Fridays are considered “late night shopping” days where things will stay open until 9. But just keep in mind that if you have errands to run (dry cleaning, appointments, etc.) you may need to take time off during the week. Another tip that I wish someone had told me is to watch out for taxes & duties! Getting things shipped from outside the EU is insanely expensive.

KELSEY: Watch out for bikes! The bike path is not the sidewalk, and they DO NOT stop.

JOSEMAR: An insider tip and one of my favorite things to do is visit the open-air market in the Jordaan called Noordermarkt. Only open Saturdays. I usually go for their great selection of fresh flowers, quite price friendly too! It’s also a great spot to snack on yummy, or as the Dutch say “lekker”, things like; gouda cheese, oysters, and a Dutch favorite, kibbling (a fried fish you can dip in tarter or garlic sauce).    

Let’s talk about Dutch culture. 

What is the biggest difference you’ve experienced from a cultural perspective? 

JOSEMAR: Off the top of my head I would say customer service is not really a big thing here and sometimes it can feel down right rude. But that being said, there is less “fake-ness” because everyone is just being honest or not overtly trying to, let’s say, sweet talk you into getting a tip. Coming from the South, I’m use to the overly polite, customer-is-always-right, Southern hospitality, but that’s just not the case here which was a little challenging to get use to at first, because that was all I knew, but now I’ve come to expect very little of customer service so whenever I actually receive it, it’s a pleasant surprise. 

KELSEY: Manners! It’s such a funny thing, but the Dutch don’t say “excuse me.” They just push right past you. It took my American mind so long to figure out that they weren’t intentionally being rude! 

MERCEDES: The Dutch put more value on something being practical & having utility, vs. having quality or variety. By that I mean you will only find a couple of brands of toilet paper, and they kind of all suck – ha. But in all honesty, many home goods or supply stores are a bit more sparse than we’re used to – think what you can get at Target in the US vs. Hema here in NL, or even Amazon Prime here vs. the US. That being said, there are a lot more independently owned stores that are great options if you’re willing to explore!

What is your favorite Dutch tradition or dish?

KELSEY: Omg can we talk about the cheese?!

MERCEDES: I wouldn’t say it’s my favorite tradition, but it’s definitely the most interesting – when it’s your birthday, YOU are expected to bring the birthday cake! And people often say “congratulations” to your family, rather than “happy birthday” to you. But I actually think my favorite tradition might be the art of the Dutch summer. It’s such a short period of time here that people really take time to enjoy it. During the warmer months, it seems like no one has full time jobs because you will see so many people boating, sitting along the canals, or having a picnic in the park.

I have a HUGE sweet tooth, so my two favorite dishes are poffertjes (mini puff pancakes pronounced poh-fer-jays) and Dutch apple pie (Winkel 43 is hands down the best).

JOSEMAR: Over the holidays, my colleagues and I participated in a team Sinterklaas, which is kind of like a secret Santa. So you pick someone’s name, get him or her a gift but the difference is the poem you have to write describing the person you got. At first it seemed a little intimidating to write a poem to describe a colleague but it ended up being quite fun especially when we got to hear everyone read their poems allowed and try to guess who it was about.

Favorite dish; can I say the gouda? I love cheese so moving to Holland has been cheese heaven haha. Specifically old gouda dipped in spicy mustard, a pub staple.  

If you could bring one thing back from the US to the Netherlands, what would it be?

JOSEMAR: I would bring back my absolute favorite seasonings from Trader Joe’s; Everything But the Bagel and Taco Seasoning. I always have both in stock in my pantry, can’t have avo toast without it and you know a Texas girl can’t live without tacos! I’d also bring back Auntie Ann’s mac n cheese and if I could bring back an entire Target I would! haha

KELSEY: Cold medicine! The stuff here is so weak. 

MERCEDES: Honestly… I miss Target so much haha. And the snacks at Trader Joe’s!! But if I could only pick one thing, it would have to be a really, really good plate of Mexican food. Like an incredible quesadilla and a half dozen tacos. While the Netherlands has a lot of great food (especially pizza) the Mexican restaurants are definitely not as good as what you can find in Los Angeles.

Let’s talk about mental health.

How do you stay connected with friends & family?

KELSEY: I’m so grateful for technology! My mom and dad are expats as well, so we text all the time. FaceTime has been a lifesaver for getting family together on holidays and being able to connect well. My blog also ends up being a great way to keep family and friends informed of my life.

MERCEDES: Actually one of the best things has been this digital picture frame (link to EU version) that my step-mom got us. Anyone can easily email pictures directly to the frame. It’s such a nice surprise waking up to new photos in the mornings! The reality though is that the burden of staying in touch will be on you. While they only have one friend/family member who relocated, you have to make the effort to stay in touch with ALL of your friends and family. It can be a lot (especially when you’re also balancing adjusting to a new culture) so don’t be too hard on yourself – or them!

JOSEMAR: Honestly I feel like Instagram makes me feel quite connected to friends and family. Whenever I watch their stories, it makes me feel like they’re just down the road instead of oceans a part. I also keep up with them via Facetime and WhatsApp of course. I’m sooo thankful for technology, couldn’t live abroad without it!

Do you have any tips for making new friends or getting connected in Amsterdam (in a post-COVID world)?

JOSEMAR: In a post-COVID world … when is that and can we fast forward 🙂 ha. I would say before COVID life, Amsterdam use to have so many events throughout the city such as festivals, museum nights, etc. Felt like there was always something going on. Another way of making friends (and actually a way I’ve met a few friends in Amsterdam) was through social media, like Facebook groups or Instagram.

KELSEY: Don’t be afraid to utilize social media! I met most of my friends and even got a job through Instagram. It’s worth grabbing a coffee with a stranger. You never know where it’ll lead…

MERCEDES: It might feel awkward at first, but go on “friend dates”. Ask around and see which of your friends or co-workers might know people in Amsterdam. Sometimes you meet friends-of-friends that end up being really great people in your life. 🙂

And finally…

If you could give one piece of advice to someone looking to live in Amsterdam, what would it be?

JOSEMAR: I’ll tell you what several people told me, they said, you don’t move to Amsterdam for the weather and boy is that true! So you may ask then why move, if you know that the rainy/grey days probably outweigh the sunny ones. You don’t move for the weather but you move for the charm, for the small yet big city feel, and for the slower pace (and well, so many other things). I find that Amsterdamians (is that a thing?) have a way of enjoying life, taking time and moments for one another. So my advice is, if the rain doesn’t bother you, come well equipped with a good umbrella, rain boots and embrace the slower pace of life. 

KELSEY: Just do it! I once had a friend tell me, “You can always move back.” Moving feels super permanent, but if you really hate it you can always go back. I have a feeling you won’t though!!

MERCEDES: Amsterdam is a truly unique city. It might seem overwhelming or intimidating at first, and there will definitely be ups & downs. But my advice is to give it at least a full year (hopefully one without COVID) before you form any strong opinions. Within a year, you will make friends, find your favorite local pub, adjust to biking, and find a new appreciation for the simple things in life. Josemar is right that the weather is sh*tty most of the time, but there is something to be said for a cozy rainy day spent inside reading a new book. Experiencing the seasons in Amsterdam – especially the fall and the snow – has been really special. And when the sun does come out, we don’t take it for granted and really know how to enjoy it!

Helpful resources

That’s it for this post – if you enjoyed it, please share it on social media! And for those of you who might be considering moving to Amsterdam, here are some helpful resources that might help you with your research. Best of luck!

• Government of the Netherlands
• Information on registering in NL (visas, work permits, bank accounts)
• More practical tips on life in NL
• Americans in the Netherlands Facebook group
• Dutch National Institute of Public Health
• Starting a business in the Netherlands
• Dutchnews.nl (news in English for an expat audience)
• COVID in the Netherlands

About Josemar: @thedamfoodie

About Kelsey: @kelseyybarnes