A complete first time visitor’s guide to Kefalonia

I just got back from my first visit to the island of Kefalonia, and it was so charming! Between the stunning beaches, welcoming people, and delicious food, this island is a must-visit in Greece. If you’re thinking of visiting but you’re not sure where to start, this complete first time visitor’s guide to Kefalonia is for you. I’ve listed all of my favorite restaurants, activities, and recommendations for where to stay – as well as a suggested 5 day itinerary. And if you’re planning to do some island hopping, check out my other Greek island travel guides!

But first… a little history

Kefalonia (pronounced Kef-ah-lon-YA) is the largest Ionian island, off of the western coast of Greece. The island has been suggested as the home of Odysseus, and has been occupied at various points by the Romans, the Ottoman Turks, the Venetians, the British, and by Italy and Germany during WWII. There was a devastating earthquake in 1953, and most structures were damaged beyond repair, so there aren’t many older buildings on the island.

What makes Kefalonia unique is the local, unspoiled feeling across the island – you can truly experience Greece. This is because Kefalonia didn’t become a major tourist destination until the late 1980s, unlike other Greek islands that have been popular since the 1960s.

If you’re interested in learning more about the island, I recommend reading Captain Corelli’s Mandolin. Although it’s a fictional novel, it gives a lot of history and insight into the struggles the island has faced.

Kefalonia or Cephallonia?

The island has had many names throughout the years due to occupations. You may see it spelled as Cephalonia, Kefallinia, or Kephallenia. In Greek the island is Κεφαλονιά, so it’s best to use the English version of that – Kefalonia.

How long to visit

Because Kefalonia is such a big island, I recommend visiting for 5-7 days. This will give you enough time to explore, but also a few unplanned/unstructured days to relax at the beach or the pool. If you’re short on time, I’ve included a condensed 5 day itinerary at the end of this post.

The fishing village of Fiskardo

Where to stay

For first timers to Kefalonia, I recommend staying in Lassi or Argostoli. Argostoli is the bustling capital of the island, with plenty of restaurants and shopping. Lassi is just a 5 minute taxi from Argostoli, but has a more local feel with access to beaches. I stayed in both Lassi and Argostoli, and preferred Lassi.

Best hotels in Lassi

We stayed at the Thalassa Boutique Hotel, which I highly recommend. The grounds are beautiful (with two pools), and it’s walking distance to beaches and restaurants in Lassi. It’s a great choice for both couples or families.

Another option is White Rocks, a gorgeous hotel with access to a private beach. It’s totally family friendly but also ideal for couples, and they even have a suite with a private infinity pool. White Rocks is more secluded, so you may want to grab a taxi to get into Lassi town.

Best hotels in Argostoli

If you want to be closer the the action in Argostoli, the Kefalonia Grand Hotel is quite chic & remodeled. It doesn’t have a pool, but it does have a perfect location close to the central square. They offer free breakfast, and the ocean view rooms have a small balcony to enjoy the sunset. Just beware that the walls of this hotel are very thin (we had issues with our neighbors), so be sure to pack some earplugs.

If we stayed in Argostoli again, I would most likely stay at the Canale Hotel. It’s still a good location with views of the harbor, but it also has a pool.

Best Group Option

If you’re traveling as a group of friends or family and will have a car, I suggest renting a villa. There are a ton of beautiful Airbnbs on the island, many of them with private infinity pools. And since this island is a little less touristy, you can get a great deal. Below are some villa options.

How to get around

Taxis on Kefalonia are more plentiful than on other Greek islands. They are a good option for getting to Argostoli, or dinner options that are close by.

However, you will definitely need a rental car if you want to explore everything the island has to offer. I recommend Autocar4rent.com, which was very professional and even dropped off our rental car directly to our hotel.

What to do

Kefalonia is an incredibly diverse island. Because of the variety in landscapes and beaches, it reminded me a lot of the island my husband is from, Skyros (I’m hoping to write a guide for Skyros the next time we visit!). Here are a few of my favorite activities on the island.

See Myrtos Beach

Myrtos is one of the most beautiful and famous beaches in the world – and for good reason. It’s breathtaking! It’s quite rocky which makes it difficult to get in and out of the water, so if you want to swim it’s worth bringing some water shoes. It also doesn’t have great facilities, so it’s a place you visit more for the view. I recommend getting there before 10am to avoid crowds.

Visit a winery

Robola is a famous Kefalonian grape, and a must-try (dry and lots of citrus / mineral notes if you’re a wine lover. Both Gentilini winery and Sarris winery are popular, and only 10-15 minutes outside of Argostoli. They usually offer daily winery tours and wine tastings, but call ahead to make sure they’re open.

Swim at Antisamos Beach

The beaches on Kefalonia are quite diverse, and some of them on the island are too rocky for my taste. But Antisamos is a great place to spend the day swimming. I recommend checking out Acron Beach Club, which has a chic Mykonos vibe – but at 1/10th of the price! Try to get there before noon in the busy season if you want to grab loungers and an umbrella.

Explore the towns

There are a ton of smaller towns & villages across the island. A few of my favorites:

• Fiskardo, a quaint fishing village (3-4 hours for lunch and shopping)
• Assos, a small but colorful Venetian town (1-2 hours to explore)
• Skala, a southern village that has good beaches and shopping (3-4 hours)

One of the best activities in Kefalonia is taking a drive, stopping in these smaller villages for a walk, a swim, or a bite to eat.

Check out the castles

There are a couple of castles with very different histories on the island – Assos castle, and St. George castle. If you’re a fan of military history (or just want a great view of the island), both are worth seeing.

Take a boat to Lixouri

Lixouri is the second largest town in Kefalonia, but it’s harder to get to by car. You can easily catch the ferry from Argostoli though, and it’s only 3 euro per person. This was the one activity I didn’t do on my most recent trip, so I will definitely be doing this when we visit next.

Visit Melissani Cave

Melissani cave is gorgeous and not to be missed on your first trip to Kefalonia. It’s actually an underwater lake, which you access by descending down an underground tunnel. A boat with a guide will then take you around the small lake for a tour. There is usually a line but it moves quickly (the tour itself is only 5-10 minutes), and it’s inexpensive at 6 euro per person.

Hang out in the Argostoli central square

Town squares are an important part of European culture, and that’s especially true in Greece. Πλατεία (plateia) is the Greek word for town square, and in traditional villages plateias are the central place for all feasts, celebrations, and events. On any given night, the central square in Argostoli is filled with locals enjoying their evening – including kids! It’s a great place to people watch or experience Greek culture.

Shop on Lithostroto Street

This pedestrian-only street in Argostoli is the main shopping area. Many of the stores were unfortunately still closed because of COVID when I visited, but there were still a few cute souvenir boutiques and cafes. If you’re looking for jewelry, one of my favorites was an unnamed store right next to Baroque le Bistrot. Dalca Art is also a cute boutique off the main shopping street that is worth a visit for jewelry by Greek artists.

Try the local food

There are several treats that Greece is known for, but my favorite from Kefalonia are mandoles. The traditional ones are covered in sugar glaze and dyed red from Kefalonian seaweed – they are absolutely addictive! You can find them at any bakery or zakaraplasteio (sweet shop) on the island.

Kefalonia also has a few local dishes you should try on your visit. If you’re a carnivore, try the meat pie (kreatopita), which is a baked pastry stuffed with mutton, pork and beef. If you’re looking for something lighter, riganada is similar to bruschetta and is delicious at any meal.

Visit St. Gerasimos Church

Saint Gerasimos is the patron saint of Kefalonia, believed to protect the island and heal illness. The church itself is quite ornate and beautiful, and the body of Saint Gerasimos is located at the monastery. Keep in mind that you need to dress modestly here; for women, I recommend wearing a longer skirt or dress than covers your knees, as well as bringing a shawl to cover your shoulders.

St. Gerasimos Church

Where to eat

Greece is known for taverna food – simple village dishes with high quality ingredients. Unlike Santorini or Mykonos, there aren’t many fine dining or concept restaurants. Your best dining experiences in Kefalonia will be at local family-run restaurants.

Lunch

Karnagio Taverna (Sami): This family run taverna is literally on the water, with tables in the sand. It’s a great choice for real Greek food after a day at the beach. I recommend the fresh fish and skordalia (garlic dip), dolmathes (stuffed grape leaves), and saganaki (fried cheese).

Tzogia’s Taverna (Lassi): This is a good local spot for village food – I recommend the souvlaki and the soutzoukakia (meatballs in red sauce), which my husband loved.

Manentis Bakery (Argostoli): I prefer grabbing a tiropita (cheese pastry) or spanokopita (spinach pastry) in the morning, and eating it while adventuring on the island. There are plenty of delicious bakeries in Kefalonia, but my favorite in Argostoli was Manentis. You can also pick up some mandoles here to snack on.

The view at Karnagio, and their saganaki and skordalia

Dinner

Kamaroules Taverna (Lassi): This is my favorite restaurant in Kefalonia – so good we went twice! They have a handwritten menu, and it’s also family run with a very small staff. Keep in mind you may be waiting a while to order – but luckily they have an epic view of the sunset over the ocean. Their prices for the quality (and quantity) of the food you get are also fantastic. My absolute favorite dish was their povera Kefalonian appetizer (many kinds of cheese, roasted tomatoes, peppers, and capers on top of bread). I also loved their saganaki, which was covered in honey and sesame.

Melograno (Argostoli): This is a fairly new restaurant, so they are still working out some of the kinks with service. However, the vibe of this restaurant is really chic, and it has an excellent location in the town square. If you want something more upscale, this is for you – I recommend the Greek salad and the lobster pasta.

O Gyros tis Plateias (Argostoli): For a delicious (and inexpensive) dinner, grab a gyro here. You can walk in to the kitchen area to order one to go, and enjoy it in the town square like a local.

Ladokolla (Argostoli): For more amazing grilled food in a sit-down setting, Ladokolla is right off of the main plateia. They serve their dishes on grease proof paper (“ladokolla”), which makes it a fun local experience.

The menus, povera, and saganaki at Kamaroules Taverna

Drinks & Dessert

Baroque Le Bistrot (Argostoli): This bar is on the main plateia, so it’s great for people watching. They have a good selection of wines and liquors as well.

Οίνοψ (Oinops) Wine Bar (Argostoli): this bar has a great selection of Greek wines, including some amazing wines from Kefalonia.

Spathis Patisserie: I wasn’t a huge fan of the bakery side, but their patisserie is amazing! They have multiple locations throughout Kefalonia, Corfu, and Ithaca, and the Argostoli location is right on the waterfront. I recommend trying their mini baklavas (the hazelnut and the cream are my two favorites) and the chocolate Oreo cookie balls (wrapped in foil).

The entrance and outdoor seating at Melograno

Kefalonia is a much more casual island than it’s more over the top cousins, Mykonos & Santorini. That being said, the same rules still apply in terms of the colors and types of clothing you should pack.

Check out my full guide for what to wear in the Greek islands, but here are a few suggestions below:

Sheer linen sets

Linen will always be a fantastic choice for summer travel, so keep the colors neutral and the cuts timeless, like a pair of beige wide leg pants.

White midi dresses

The Greek islands can get very hot during the day, but cool down at night with strong winds. Midi dresses are the perfect blend of form & function in an updated silhouette, and a crisp white is the perfect contrast against those gorgeous island sunsets.

A raffia bag

Lastly, a raffia bag is a must. Natural textures pop beautifully against whitewashed walls and blue seas, making this the ultimate Greek island packing list item.

• Mosquito wipes: I swear by these deet-free non-toxic mosquito wipes. I bring them with me everywhere in the summer. They’re individually wrapped, which makes them perfect for throwing into a purse or beach bag.
• Euros: most drivers want cash, plus you’ll need coins for the buses.
• Motion sickness bracelet: It’s a good idea to pack a motion-sickness bracelet for ferries and boat trips (especially if you’re taking a trip to Delos). I recommend a bracelet if you’re planning on drinking alcohol, which shouldn’t be combined with dramamine.
• Noise cancelling earplugs: these silicone ear plugs are a must for staying near the beach clubs – and they’re super comfortable to sleep in.
• Sunscreen: a necessity for Greece, especially if you’re spending time at a beach club. I prefer high-SPF French brands, like this one from La Roche Posay.

Kefalonia is a big island with a lot of possibilities, so I’ve included a suggest itinerary if you’re not sure where to start. 5 full days is the minimum I would suggest staying, and you will definitely need a car. Here is an itinerary that will allow you to see the best the island has to offer, in a short time.

DAY 1 – Beaches + Lassi

After checking in to your hotel, spend some time at one of the beaches in Lassi. Costa Costa Beach Club is a good spot, if you can grab a lounger. Afterwards, have a sunset dinner at my favorite restaurant in Argostoli, Kamaroules Taverna.

DAY 2 – Melissani Cave + Antisamos

Start the day by grabbing a tiropita at a bakery, and driving to Melissani Cave in the morning. Then head to Antisamos for a long afternoon at Acron Beach Club. On your way back to town, stop in Sami for a relaxed late lunch / early dinner at Karnagio.

DAY 3 – Myrtos Beach + FISKARDO

Head to Myrtos beach early to avoid the crowds. Then continue on for shopping or an early lunch in Fiskardo. On your way back if you have some time, stop in Assos for a stroll and to see the Venetian castle.

DAY 4 – St. Gerasimos + Wineries

Start the morning with a visit to St. Gerasimos Church. St. George’s castle is nearby, for a great view of the island. If you’re feeling adventurous and don’t mind driving, you can also squeeze in a visit to Skala in the afternoon, before heading to a winery – I recommend Gentilini or Sarris.

DAY 5 – Lixouri + Argostoli

On your last day, take a break from driving! Take the ferry to Lixouri for the day, and spend the evening in Argostoli in the town square. I recommend getting a gyro from O Gyros or Ladokolla, and enjoying it in the town square. Follow it with some shopping, and a drink at Baroque le Bistrot.