One of my favorite fall weekend trips when I lived in the states was Montreal. It has all of that quintessential Canadian charm, but with a French soul. It’s just an hour and a half plane ride from NYC, but the architecture & cobblestone streets really make it feel like you’re in Europe. And autumn is an extra special time in Montreal, because you’ll get to see gorgeous fall foliage! If you’re planning a trip to Canada or the east coast of the US, I highly recommend taking a few days to see this city. Read below for how to spend the perfect cozy fall weekend in Montreal.
Mercedes
But first… English or French?
French is the official language of Quebec, so you may be wondering if you should brush up on your bonjours and mercis. But if you don’t speak any French, not to worry – English is the most common language in Canada. You’ll find that many of the shops will greet you with “Bonjour/Hello!” and are able to speak to you in either language. If you’re renting a car however, do some research on the French street signs and the rules of the road (something you should always do when driving in a different country).
Where to stay
I highly recommend staying in an Airbnb if you want that European feel. My two favorite areas are Old Montreal & Monkland Village – check out the map at the end of this section for all of my favorite Airbnbs!
Old Montreal
Old Montreal has a ton of lofts with exposed brick & grandiose windows, and it’s the perfect spot if you want to be centrally located near bars & restaurants. This gorgeous one is my favorite, and it’s ideal for two couples or a group of friends.
Monkland Village
A lot of the charm of Montreal is found outside of the main city streets, and Airbnbs there are incredibly affordable. We loved staying in the Monkland Village area, in this Airbnb that is perfect for a couple or three friends. If you’re traveling in a larger group or a family, renting your own house will give you that cozy vibe – especially if you can see the fall leaves from your windows! This house is totally perfect for a big family.
How to get around
Montreal is safe and walkable, with great public transportation. If you’re in Old Montreal you’re in luck because you’ll be able to walk everywhere! If you’re in Monkland Village, it’s super easy and inexpensive to take the metro. Just keep in mind that the metro stops at 1am (1:30 on Saturdays). If you’re out super late, Uber is always an option. Just remember to look up the rules on the use of face masks if you’re using public transportation.
What to do
Visit Old Montreal
Vieux-Montréal (or Old Montreal) is the heart of the city. Dating back to the 17th century, it has those old cobblestone streets that will make you feel like you’re in Europe. There are a ton of great shops, cafes, and bars (including a few of the ones mentioned above).
See a hockey game
What’s more Canadian than hockey? 🙂 Hockey season starts in early October, and the Montreal Canadiens play at Centre Bell stadium right in the middle of the city. Although the stadium may be closed due to COVID, under normal circumstances you can buy tickets here.
See the Notre-Dame Basilica
The Notre-Dame Basilica is in the middle of Old Montreal, and is an absolute must visit. It’s probably the most stunning church I’ve ever visited in North America. The woodwork, teal ceilings, and blue & purple colors are something you can’t miss.
Go apple picking
One of the most quintessential fall activities is apple picking, and there are a few orchards close to the city. If you’re staying in an Airbnb with a kitchen, take a few home and make an apple pie! The closest orchard is Verger Labonte, and they also have pumpkin patches and corn mazes! I also recommend Cidrerie La Croix, which is just outside of town. You can plan an entire day of apple picking, tasting their delicious local ciders, and they even offer a gourmet dining experience. Check with individual orchards for opening information and safety procedures.
Visit St-Ambroise Brewery
When I was in Montreal, I loved visiting the St-Ambroise brewery. Their beers are great, and the pub offers standard brewery fare (think hamburgers & hot dogs). They even have a pumpkin ale that will get you into the autumn spirit. If the weather is nice, you can feel like a true European by sitting out on the terrace. They also offer tours of the brewery under normal circumstances, which you can schedule here.
See the fall foliage
The leaves start changing in mid-September, but October is the best time to see the colors at full strength. If you’re staying in Monkland Village, you can go for a walk down the suburban streets and see tons of majestic oaks and sumacs. But if you want to make a special stop, Mount Royal Park is just to the west of downtown and is beautiful in the fall. It’s also home to a spooky cemetery, if you’re visiting around Halloween!
Visit the Musée des Beaux-Arts
They have a really unique collection of modern Inuit art, as well as one of the three largest collections of international art in Canada. Plus their exhibit rooms are impeccably decorated,
VIsit the Botanical Gardens
The Botanical Gardens are incredibly unique, diverse, and creative. But the gardens span 190 acres, so they can be a bit overwhelming. The Garden of Innovations is a must see, and the Hacienda & Japanese Garden are also beautiful. Make sure to plan your route by using their website – you can also select the time of year you’re visiting and they will make suggestions for you!
Where to eat
Montreal actually has more restaurants per capita than any other metropolitan area in North America, so if you’re a foodie you’ll be in heaven!
Best poutine: La Banquise
You can’t visit Canada without trying poutine! Poutine is Quebec slang for “a mess”, which is exactly what you’ll get at La Banquise – a delicious mess! It’s a bit out of the way, but it’s worth it – they have 30 combinations (including a vegan one) and they’re open 24 hours.
Best bagel: St-Viateur
The best bagel is a hotly contested debate in Montreal – according to locals, it’s tie between St-Viateur and Fairmount. I’ve only tried St-Viateur, but they’re actually around the corner from each other. So if you end up testing them both out, let me know what you think! Montreal bagels are a little sweeter than NYC bagels, so try the all dressed (everything) if you want something more savory.
Best fine dining: Le Serpent
This place isn’t your typical stuffy white tablecloth restaurant. Le Serpent is industrial, creative, and super chic – it reminds me of some of my favorite LA restaurants like Chi Spacca or Otium. If you’re in a small group, try to sit at the counter to get to know the staff.
Best brunch: Beauty’s
Beauty’s is a classic diner and there will likely be a line, but it’s worth the wait. Try the mish-mash omelet or the Beauty’s special (a Montreal bagel with smoked salmon & cream cheese).
Best DINING experience: Joe Beef
The vibe is incredibly unique and it’s difficult to get reservations, but if you pick one restaurant in Montreal it should be Joe Beef. Eating here with friends was probably one of the most memorable moments of my trip. They change the menu frequently on a blackboard (very French bistrot) so it’s hard to say what you’ll get. But to give you an idea of the creativity, they originally gained notoriety by jokingly inventing the double down (no longer on the menu). It’s pretty heavy fare which is perfect for cold fall nights, but if you’re a pescatarian they also always have delicious oysters!
Where to drink
If you want a casual vibe: Hurley’s Irish Pub
Hurley’s is a super cozy Irish pub in the center of Old Montreal. They have 19 beers on tap (including Guinness of course),and a huge selection of whiskey.
If you want to feel sophisticated: Bar George
Super chic & old school, this bar is absolutely stunning. It reminds me of The Carousel Bar in New Orleans, or The Pulitzer Bar in Amsterdam. Definitely the spot to order a classic cocktail.
If you want to feel trendy: The ATWATER COCKTAIL CLUB
Impossibly cool and one of the top 10 bars in the Americas (#3 in Canada!). Atwater has some of the kookiest, most unique (and most delicious) cocktails in the city – definitely a must visit.
If you want an amazing view: The Terrace
The Terrace at the William Gray Hotel is a great spot for late afternoon drinks. The cocktails are pricier, but it’s right in the middle of Old Montreal and has a stunning view of the city.
What to wear
Montreal is famous for harsh winters, and although fall days are crisp and manageable make sure to pack warm jackets (think shearling or puffer) and some weather resistant combat boots. Find some more fall outfit ideas here.
Outfit details:
- All Saints Cargo leather jacket, available here in the UK, here in the EU, and here & here in the US
- Burberry classic mega check cashmere scarf, available here in the US and here in the EU
- Girlfriend leggings in compression black, available here and here
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